期刊 / Notes

Vineyard diaries

What does a winemaker’s day really look like? The journals of Jeanne at Château L’Évangile in Pomerol and Joaquín at Viña Los Vascos in Chile reveal two contrasting yet connected lives. This is the story of two different hemispheres and one shared passion.

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Two hemispheres, two winemakers, two pivotal moments. At Château L’Évangile, Jeanne Lutun, Head of R&D, is on the lookout for the first signs of spring. At Viña Los Vascos, Joaquín Ortiz, Agronomist and Deputy Head of Viticulture, is witnessing the final stages of the harvest. Their writing surface: the soil. Their ink: sap, sweat, and a hint of apprehension. Here are their journals—written on the same day, 13,000 kilometers apart.

Jeanne Lutun’s field notes
Head of Research & Development, Château L’Évangile, Pomerol

  • 18th March 2025

At dawn on the first morning of spring. The sky is clear, the earth still damp. At L’Évangile, the buds are covered in cotton—fragile cocoons just a few millimetres thick, their last line of defence against a late frost. Jeanne begins her day as always: out in the vineyard, with the team.

8 a.m. — Warm-up

The day begins with a group stretching session. Ten minutes of movement between the vines: wrists circling, hips cracking—it’s like P.E. but Pomerol-style. Jeanne leads the team through the warm-up. Some members wear trainers, some sport woolly hats. The mood is a mixture of quiet focus and banter.

Later, a few don discreet exoskeletons. Not to play superheroes, but to protect their backs. Warming up readies the body; the exoskeleton eases strain. The goal is the same as the warm-up: looking after those who care for the vines.

11 a.m. — Biodynamics, rituals and remedies


The ‘bouille-à-dos’ might sound like a comic book character, but it’s a serious bit of kit. Jeanne, Juliette and Jean-Louis have spent two days with these backpack sprayers, gently misting the vines using horsetail tea. The plants used in biodynamic treatments are often picked on-site from fallow plots, then dried in the château’s attic—like chamomile, which hangs for months in bunches like a monastery’s herbal stockpile. Here, though, the prayers are infusions, and the miracles are nature’s resilience in the face of climate change.


11:30 a.m. — Pruning celebration and lunch

In Pomerol, seasons aren’t marked by fireworks, but with recipes and a glass of wine. Today, they celebrate the end of pruning. At the table: tired smiles, calloused hands, and homemade poppy jelly from Corinne, the ‘mother of L’Évangile’, booster of morale and the heart of our team. Every spoonful tastes like early spring—something no forecast can predict.

3 p.m. — Aromas, recipes, and a chromatic wheel

Jeanne’s office features a large, colourful wheel: the in-house ‘aroma map’, gathering all the scents and notes identified at L’Évangile. Peony, violet, powder, cedar, sap…their purpose? To build a shared vocabulary between those who taste, those who speak, and those who decide.

On her screen, Jeanne opens a file titled ‘Recipe Plan’—a detailed map of the vintage. Trials, lots, toasts, container types…traces of past choices and hypotheses for the future.

5 p.m. — A quiet close

The light fades softly across the vines. Jeanne packs up her notes, checks the evening temperatures, and closes the cellar door. Tomorrow may call for another chamomile spray. Or a growth check. Whatever comes, the day will begin with a group stretching session—wellbeing always comes first.

While Jeanne checks her frost sensors, Joaquín puts on his sunglasses.

13,000 kilometres away, the vines are being—or have just been—harvested. At Viña Los Vascos in Chile, the 2025 vintage is drawing to a close. While Joaquín Ortiz starts his mornings with avocado toast and coffee, his afternoons are all about hawks, berries, and biodynamic perches. Same attention to detail, different soundscape. The rhythm’s the same, but with a Chilean guitar and a higher altitude.

Joaquín Ortiz’s field notes
Deputy Agricultural Director – Viña Los Vascos, Colchagua, Chile

  • 18th March 2025

The sun rises over the Andes as Joaquín sets his cup of coffee on the table. At exactly 7:30 a.m. (1:30 p.m. in Pomerol), the mood is calm but focused in the agricultural office. Gabi, José Luis, and Juan Luis are all present (as they are every morning) for the first briefing of the day.

8 a.m. — Berry tasting

Joaquín heads out to taste the grapes with José Luis, Max, and Diego from vineyard and cellar teams. He takes notes on the pulp, firmness, and aromatic expression. This morning, the batch is still a little cool, shaded by the hills. A few rows over, another is harvest-ready. Terroir isn’t one block—it’s a millefeuille. Sometimes, you only harvest one layer.

1 p.m. — Lunch at the ‘casino’

Don’t let the name fool you. In Chile, the ‘casino’ is the canteen. Under the sun, among colleagues from every department, the mood is warm and easy. They talk shop, weather and of course, football. On the plate: a homemade dish by Señora Paty. 

4 p.m. — Cattle and bloodlines

They drive out to Alcones in the truck. There, at Benito’s Aberdeen Angus farm, it’s time for a bit of genetic matchmaking. Joaquín, José Luis and César study the bulls like they’re auditioning session musicians: evaluating muscle tone, posture, temperament, breeding potential. They avoid inbreeding, strengthen the herd, and prepare for the next generation.

To Joaquín, livestock are an extension of the vineyard. Through rotational grazing, the cattle enrich the soil. And in the eyes of the chosen bull(s), there may already be hints of the vintages to come.

5 p.m. — Final tuning

As the day winds down, Joaquín returns to the cellar. He fine tunes the next day’s harvest plan with Max, Diego, and José Luis. Like tuning a guitar before a concert. The grapes are ready, the teams are in place, the tanks on standby. All that’s left is to pass on the notes – so everyone knows their part.

As evening settles over the valley, Joaquín closes his notebook and looks out across the vines. See you tomorrow for the next verse.

Two continents, one shared score

As the sun sets over Pomerol, Jeanne checks her frost sensors one last time. At that same moment, Joaquín looks up at a Chilean sky still pulsing with light. There will be more buds, more harvests, more beasts to choose from.

And in the margins of their days, a few scribbled notes – to remember, to stay in tune.

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